The New York Times has recently published a list of America's 'greatest Mexican restaurants', and Portland, Oregon, has made a strong showing with two notable establishments. The article highlights the city's thriving culinary scene, where heartfelt cooking, regional specialties, and culinary excellence are celebrated across various venues, from pop-ups to rooftop bars and tasting-menu restaurants. While the Times's selections are commendable, there are several other Portland restaurants that could have been included, such as Lilia, Machetes, Nuestra Cocina, Tope, Ancestro, Güero, Astral, Tito's Taquitos, Mole Mole, and numerous taco carts. Among these, two Portland restaurants have been recognized by the Times: Ki'ikibáa and Mis Tacones.
Ki'ikibáa, located on Northeast 82nd Avenue, is a Yucatecan restaurant owned by Manny Lopez and Suny Parra Castillo. It was named Restaurant of the Year in 2023 and has since been featured in the Times's guide to Portland's best restaurants. The restaurant's regional specialties include panuchos, citrus-soaked cochinita pibil, and relleno negro, a dish featuring thick slices of egg-stuffed pork sausage in a savory broth. The Times's recommendation to focus on regional specialties is well-deserved, as Ki'ikibáa showcases the authentic flavors of Yucatan.
Mis Tacones, on the other hand, offers a unique dining experience with its colorful interior adorned with Chicano iconography in a rainbow of pastels. The restaurant serves vegan takes on traditional East L.A. Chicano cuisine, reflecting the vegan lifestyle of its owners, Polo Bañuelos and Carlos Reynosa. Despite starting as a personal project for homesick Angelenos, Mis Tacones has gained national acclaim, including being named the best vegan Mexican restaurant in the country for two consecutive years. The Times's recognition of Mis Tacones highlights the growing trend of plant-based Mexican cuisine and the creativity of chefs in the Pacific Northwest.
While the Times's list provides valuable insights into the diverse and vibrant Mexican culinary scene in Portland, it only scratches the surface of the city's rich gastronomic offerings. The city's culinary landscape is characterized by its dynamic nature, with pop-ups, rooftop bars, and innovative restaurants constantly emerging. This constant evolution ensures that Portland remains at the forefront of the Mexican food movement in the United States, offering a unique and ever-changing dining experience for locals and visitors alike.
